Menswear writer. Editor at @putthison. Bylines at The New York Times, The Financial Times, Politico, Esquire, and Mr. Porter
Joined February 2011
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instead of introducing 50 year mortgages, how about we just build more housing in the places people want to live — and find ways to make that housing more affordable, such as, and for example, not deport people who build our housing or impose tariffs on building materials.
Me: "Hello Kash Pa—"
*clears throat*
Me, but this time in Yosemite Sam's voice so no one suspects I'm an immigrant: "Well, consarn it, HELLO there, Kash Patel! I got me a dadgum case with yer name all over it!"
going to call kash patel about this 👆
I think this bag is fake.
Hermes's flagship products are handsewn using a saddle stitch. Worker marks the leather using an awl and threads needles through from both sides.
This results in a tight stitch with no holes between the stitches. The holes here suggest machine sewing.
disagree this looks cheap. roger gets a lot of his tailoring from alan flusser and anderson & sheppard, both high end tailors. the jackets have a relatively soft shoulder but do the important work of broadening the shoulder line, creating the illusion of a a v-shaped figure
a friend of mine earns more than me as an electrician. i'm not annoyed at all — genuinely happy for him, as he's my friend. i'm annoyed at seeing ~50% of my paycheck go to rent every month. i don't think people like karp understand what it feels like to be crushed by rent
Of course, don't forget vintage.
My goal is not to tell you what to buy, but rather to help you develop an eye for fit, silhouette, and quality so you can see past brand names, empty copy writing, and celebrity marketing. This way, you can see what is the best choice for you.
Epaulet's overcoats ($2,205 with code welcome10) are great if you want something made in the US and can be customized through fabrics.
If you value hand craftsmanship, then I think Whitcomb & Shaftsbury offers more value than luxury designer, as it's a true artisanal product.
For most people, the best value is somewhere between fast fashion and designer luxury. The H&M overcoat is $269, but it's a wool-polyamide blend and doesn't have the best shape. California Arts's overcoats are $750, but they're 100% wool and hang better.
IG leeyjohn_
Similarly, if you have an unusual build, your choice will be made for you: ready-to-wear won't fit, so you have to use a custom tailor like Whitcomb & Shaftsbury.
However, most of us are somewhere in the middle of these worlds.
So who provides the best value?
This is very hard to say, as much depends on your budget. Someone earning $100/ month will find the $269 H&M overcoat to be an extravagant purchase. To a billionaire, the $11,200 Cucinelli overcoat is like buying a candy bar.
But when you're shopping designer luxury, you may be surprised to find how much of the stuff is still factory produced. Like the Epaulet overcoat, the buttonholes, pad stitching, and pick stitching are still done by machine. It's not an true benchmade garment like W&S.
